Did you miss...?

Aurora on the Home Front

Northern Lights seen here in Sequim! May 10th and the Northern Lights popped by for a visit. I am happy to see them, but honestly, how DARE ...

Thursday, June 07, 2007

Where All the Women are Strong and All the Men are Good Looking

It was our first full day in the Minneapolis and St Paul, home to more than more than 2 million souls, the Minnesota Twins, the Mall of America (largest mall in the US), & Keillor’s Prairie Home Companion radio show. Eager to enjoy what the Twin Cities had to offer we had a tough decision to make. Where to spend our short time while in Minneapolis? We perused a list of possibilities and finally we made up our minds; we were going birding.
The Minnesota Valley Wildlife Refuge sits atop a ridge overlooking a wide spreading valley. A birdfeeder at the visitor center had a nice hodgepodge of birds; Goldfinches, Red-winged Blackbirds, Grackles were everywhere. Red-bellied, Hairy and Downy Woodpeckers flew in back forth between the feeders and several stately old trees. Some beautiful, copper tinted Tom Turkeys marched out of the woods and made pigs of themselves at a platform feeder.

We hiked down to the lake with hopes of picking up some warblers. It was a treacherous trail downhill and I almost plummeted to my death when an unleashed toddler, at least 2-years-old, sped past me.
Don was putting his bird song identification skills to work and he had correctly pegged a slowly sung ‘deee-deee-deee as the song of Black-capped Chickadees. I could hear in the distance a different song that was oddly familiar but I was unable to place it exactly. Then we both spotted the singer at the same time; a White-throated Sparrow.

I pondered a long standing mystery; the song of the White-throat begins with two clear notes followed by triplets - ‘Old Sam Pea-bo-dy, Pea-bo-dy, Pea-bo-dy’. However, the amazing fact is that north of the Canadian Border, the same White-throats sing, a similar song - ‘Oh sweet Can-a-da, Can-a-da, Can-a-da!’

A great mystery remains - just how do the birds know which side of the border they are on?


White-throated Sparrow


Northern Cardinals

Following the hike, I got the first of many Minnesota National Wildlife Refuge stamps for my Blue Goose Passport Book. Don asked after other hiking trails in the refuge. A refuge docent suggested a trail that started more or less from where we had just returned.

‘You coming?’ Don asked. He was eager to get out and put additional mileage on his hiking boots.

‘Naw,' said I. There were three weeks of vacation ahead of me. I wanted to pace myself.

>Don went on his hike, I settled myself by the big picture window to watch the parade of animals around the feeders, this time from the inside of the center. I saw my first Blue Jay for the trip and my favorite of all song-birds for both looks and for song – the Northern Cardinal. The last cardinal I saw had been on a Christmas card and I really missed them. Aside from the birds, there was a tiny Red Squirrel munching seed at the base of the feeder and a 13-lined Ground Squirrel. These ground squirrels are chipmunk-sized and dapper with their pretty stripes. So it rather surprised me that they gave me the willies the way they crept around; like fuzzy, streaked cockroaches.


Thirteen-Lined Ground Squirrel, known to
Minnesotans as a 'gopher' and to me as 'creepy'

When Don returned I was elated – he hadn’t spotted any migrating flocks of Prothonotary or Cerulean Warblers. I was more pleased about that than I let on. Ok, sometimes I'm a less than a perfect friend.

Don has relatives in Minneapolis and we went to visit Don’s father’s Minnesota<> cousins, Marianne Seekamp and her brother Pat Lyon. We drove to the Seekamp’s house in a cute little neighborhood with the typical beautiful old multi storied Midwestern houses. I admired the beautiful scarlet and yellow tulips that bloomed by the Seekamp’s front door. I can never coax tulips to bloom in SacramentoAs we walked through the front door, Marianne’s husband Dick, smiled down at me with a mischievous grin.

‘What’s that on your shoulder?’I froze. Out of the corner of my eye I could see a polka-dot sashaying around on the shoulder of my orange camp shirt.

Don plucked the mobile dot and said calmly, ‘It’s just a tick.’

‘WHAT DO YOU MEAN ITS JUST A TICK!’, I shrieked.

All in all , I must say having a tick on me was some sort of great ice-breaker;the afternoon was a delight. The Seekamps took us on a car tour of Minneapolis which included Lakewood Cemetery. That was not a strange thing for Don, who was researching his family’s roots. Nor was that unusual for me, who used spent many a memorial day in my youth, on family picnics in Farmingdale where my paternal grandparents were buried. Don saw first hand where several of his father’s aunts and other relatives were buried.


(L to R) Maryanne, Don, Dick and Pat

Following the cemetery tour we were treated to a delish Midwestern backyard barbeque and then it was back to the Nan’s B&B and not a jot too soon because I was dead tired.

The following morning, under the capable direction of the GIS system’s persona,
Chachalaca, we drove two hours north and arrived at an eensie little village called Geise, which rhymes with wheezy. We would stay at the Geise Bed & Breakfast for a few days. The B&B was a three story affair with the owner’s living quarters in the lowermost level, an antique shop in the mid-level and generous guest quarters in the top floor.

The guest area had two comfy living rooms, each with their own fireplaces, televisions and opposing bedrooms. I thought the rooms and their folky decor were lifted straight out of Country Living Magazine. We were told we could have any of the rooms and I went for the one with lavender quit and cute birdhouses over my queen sized bed. Just outside my room’s French doors a wooden balcony/walkway had a view of the beautiful Minnesota Woodlands.


Her Majesty's Quarters


Some balcony type scenery

Once we were settled into our rooms we decided we would visit the Department of Natural Resources where birding blinds can be reserved to catch the early morning Grouse show – more on that later. But first we had to find the DNR offices and for the first time, poor Chachalaca for all her high tech satellite wizardry, was clueless.

Take a right hand turn in 50 yards,’ Chacha cooed as if she knew what the hell she was saying. She dinged twice to let us know we ought to make a turn, but there was no road to turn on to! But Chacha did not seem to appreciate that we did not turn on her recommendation. She sounded as if she was in a bit of a snit, as she insisted, ‘make a U-turn when it is safe to do so’. I suspected she was trying to run us into a ditch and on the spot I decided Chachalaca was not really an appropriate name. If we were going to be directed into the thick of unnamed woods, perhaps Chupacabara, ‘Chup’ was a more appropriate name. The name stuck; Chup (Choop) she was from then on.

The skies were overcast when we made it to the refuge headquarters and a light rain had begun to fall. While Don got helpful information and signed us up for the Grouse lek, I perused the cool free pamphlets. Then it was back to the B&B for a short rest. Later we decided to go out for dinner. We headed out in the car and on it was still raining I decided to not take my camera. And as nothing brings wildlife out of the woodwork like not having a camera on hand, it was no surprise to me that before long, Don asked, ‘What is that way up there on the road?’

I squinted. There was a porcupine, methodically lumbered along the side of the road. Adventure! Once, when I was in my 20’s I had wrangled with a porcupine. I had run it down, tossing my jacket over it to nab some quills as a victory souvenir. History was about to repeat itself!

I got out of the car and raced after the porcupine in an incredibly fast run... ok, maybe it was more like an incredibly fast lumber actually. The prickly critter stopped in its tracks and looked back at me. Suddenly its quills flared - just like that little dinosaur in Jurassic Park. The thick milk white quills that edged Porky's tail rattled like a saber at a Civil War reenactment. Then the critter put on a burst of speed, disappearing into the scenery. I stood, coughing on the porcupine's dust.

Damn. In 30 years porcupines have really picked up some speed haven't they?

The following day we returned to Rice Lake, known as such because the Dakota Indians used to harvest wild rice there.

We drove along the refuge's Wildlife Auto Tour, stopping occasionally to watch birds, such as the numerous Wood Duck, Ring-billed Duck, and Blue-winged Teal in numerous ponds just off the road. We also stopped to walk around and look for the ever evasive warblers. One thing that caught my attention was all the ponds seemed to be unusually reflective, probably due to the water’s clarity.


Blue-winged teal, drake and hen

We also found a Solitary Sandpiper and some Sharp-tailed Grouse we flushed while driving past a large field. Later in the afternoon as we drove around the county we found a Eastern Broad-winged Hawk and even an adult Bald Eagle that was sat by the highway as if waiting for a bus.


Broad-winged Hawk

Not to be outdone, that evening I picked up a lifer myself - a Deer Tick! I shrieked when I found the nasty thing and gave the creepy thing and his travel partners, 3 Wood Ticks, free diving lessons in the toilet. I was horrified - the ticks were not in the least upset by the dunking – they just crawled around in the bottom of the toilet, like eensie deep sea divers. Ugh!

It's the eensie Deer Tick that carries Lyme Disease
and they have to be attached for a
couple of days to spread the disease.

Late in the day we drove along the wooded roads headed back to the B&B. I was in heaven, in the heartland, listening to a Prairie Home Companion on its home turf.


Don's lifer Solitary Sandpiper

Tuesday, June 05, 2007

Mini-Post

Even as I carry on about my Minnesota trip, the Genographic Project is hard at work sorting out my genetic alphabet soup.

A. They received my kit (tube containing my cheeky cheek cells) & sorted it into batches.
B. They have busted open the cells of my sample (all the better to see what in deh soup).

Next up: DNA analysis and quality control

Oooo can hardly wait! Will update as National Geographic dives into the annals of the History of 'moi'
. no ego trip going on here. right...

Monday, June 04, 2007

To the Heartland

Nan’s B&B in Minnesota
There was not a soul that I told about my upcoming Minnesota trek who did not respond with a look of curiosity and the response, ‘Minnesota?’, as if they misunderstood my pronunciation of 'Orlando' or 'Paris'. When I confirmed that I was really flying to Minnesota, they politely queried, ‘Visiting relatives?’

‘No’, I’d squeal back at them, with a Mr Toad’s Wild Ride sort of look in my eyes. ‘I’m going birding. Greater Prairie Chickens! Sharp-tailed Grouse! Scarlet Tanager!”

Only the birders I know ‘got it’, knew I was in for some terrific Spring birding along the Central Migratory Flyway.

Minnesota as a vacation destination was the idea of my long time birding buddy Don. I had invited myself along on his vacation. Overall we do quite well together as traveling companions, and despite the odd disagreement, we have thus far have managed to not murder each other.

I decided to go with Don because last year he went to Tennessee for a P.E.A.C.E. Corps reunion with some of his buddies and there he got in some opportunistic birding. During that trip he occasionally phoned to tell me about the incredible birds he saw, such as the swamp dwelling Prothonotary Warbler - a bird I would murder your grandmother to see. So, to me it seemed easier to just go along on to Minnesota with Don, rather than stay home and wait for excited phone calls about what great birds he was seeing and I was not. You know, some day I plan to get serious help with my bird-envy issues.

So, on May 3rd, we were off to Minnesota. On arrival we went to pick up our Alamo rental car. We’d decided frugally on a super economy car which the counter person warned us only had luggage capacity of a Yugo’s glove compartment. We hemmed, hawed and moved up to a compact car with a trunk the size of a breadbox.

‘Do you both intend to drive? That will be another $10 a day for the second driver.’

I was willing to lie and say I would not drive and if we had an accident we could switch seats but I didn’t want Don to know how dishonest I am willing to be when asked to shell out $10 a day for NOTHING. So, long story short, our $500 car rental escalated into a $1100 rental. In my book, car rental agencies are right up there with the Pirates of the Caribbean – a great ride but honestly, you wouldn’t really want to break bread with a filthy pirate , would you?

Negotiations over, we rolled our luggage into the garage to pick up our rental. The attendant was a sweet tempered man from Somalia, whose accent escaped both of us.

‘Pe’k ah ne caah you want een these roaws!’ he sang to us cheerily.

‘What?’

‘I say, you taahk any cah. Is free op gray, too-dah ohnly.’

We stared stupidly until eventually the man’s words sank into our heads; for totally unexplained reason we were getting a free car upgrade from a compact to a midsize car. Had we rented the initial super economy would be still have been able to drive away in a freely upgraded midsize car? Who knows. I only know I suddenly felt reallllly picky, like a robin, unsure what branch to nest on, moving twine and straw from one branch to another in search of some unknown branch factor. Aimlessly I scrutinized car after shiny new midsize car but they call came up short. Don trudged along, putting our half ton of luggage into one car, then another, all the while urging me to make up my mind.

‘This is a nice car. What’s wrong with this one? Look, it has air conditioning. It has leather seats that match your eyes. It’s clean.’
I snarled. Hair fell off of Don’s head. Eventually I was coaxed, by a bowl of cool water and a biscuit, into choosing a white Ford Impala. The Impala’s trunk was precisely large enough, but only large enough, for our luggage, which gave me the only credibility I ever felt towards intelligent design. I had the first driving shift, so Don was navigator. He’d purchased a spanking new, portable GPS system just for this trip. For those who shun technology, the GPS system is a plastic box the size of a large cell phone, with a mini-tv screen. Guided by satellite, a GPS guides you from point A to point B with fewer wrong turns than if you consulted a clerk at a corner Quickie Mart (only about 30% of whom speak English). Don keyed in our first Minnesota destination; Nan’s Bed and Breakfast.


A highly feminine female voice cooed, ‘Turn right in 500 yards.’

The GPS sounded like Angelina Jolie in heat. I felt irrationally envious. My own voice, to my own ears, resembles that of Tony Soprano - with a sore throat.

Don blushed. "I think I'll call the GPS 'Chachalaca'. It means ‘chatterbox’ in Honduran. You have to turn right, over there. Ok, turn now."

Chachalaca was also the name of a scrawny, wild bush chicken in Texas. Nothing sounded scrawny about this Chachalaca. ‘She’ dinged twice to let me know I had made the correct turn then breathlessly added, ‘make a left hand turn in .6 miles.’

“You’re going to make a left hand turn coming up,” Don explained.

‘Ding Ding,’ Chacha rang out. ‘Continue, bearing left…’

‘Ok, the turn is here, and now you’re going to continue on the left hand side,’ Don explained.

I ripped off Don’s head and handed it to him. There would be no more duplicate instructions for the remainder of the trip. Honestly, if you run across Don, be nice to him. He put up with a lot.
Nan’s Bed and Breakfast was perfectly charming and a great way to start the trip. Our rooms were upstairs in the beautiful home that was built in 1895. My room overlooked a cute little back yard and though Don’s room was smaller, both of our rooms had adorable old fashioned quilts on the queen sized beds. I don’t know if Don though his was adorable or not.

That evening I stood outside the B&B, my head cranked back to watch flights of Chimney Swifts overhead. It's been decades since I've seen Chimney Swifts, when I was a kid and my parents took me to Expo ’67 in Montreal. While I gazed skyward, Don met and greeted one of his Minnesota contacts, Chris; a really neat lady who like Don, had been in the P.E.A.C.E. Corps and also like Don, is highly gregarious. She greeted us with a C.A.R.E. package of some of the best cookies I’ve ever tasted and beautifully illustrated books on Florida waterfowl for each of us. She, like the remainder of the Minnesotans we would meet on the trip was one of the people that give the heartland its heart.