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Hula Returns to Sequim

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Wednesday, April 12, 2023

Sailing the Salish Sea


In 2019, when I was living in Port Angeles, I signed up for an Audubon sponsored 3 day sail trip, north into the island strewn waters. I signed on & paid up immediately. Then, guess what - COVID! Long story short, the trip was put on hold... for 3 years! This year the wildlife tour finally set sail. 

Girlie Belted Kingfisher on Rigging at Sequim Port

on the left, the Glacier Spirit

The 'voyage' was 3 days, 2 nights sailing around the San Juan Islands, in search of birds and marine mammals. I was a tad disappointed because back in 2020, the trip promised the 2 nights were to be at a Canadian Bed & Breakfast. This year we'd be staying in Washington state on San Juan Island. 

The Glacier Spirit was docked in the John Wayne Marina, only about 20 minutes from my house. In California I always had to drive some 3 or more hours to get to whatever boat I booked, often spending the night prior to the trip in a local hotel so I wouldn't have to leave Fair Oaks at 3AM to get to my ride on time. So that's points for convenience.

The inner cabin where most of my time was spent

I have to say, I was rather disappointed but that was on me, not the trip itself. I have been used to Jaunts on the Pacific Ocean, where you can find Albatross, Petrels, Shearwaters, exotic gulls, and don't get me started on the whales and other marine mammals! This however is the Salish Sea, inland from the Pacific Ocean and therefore I wasn't about to see any of the above mentioned pelagic birds. Duh, right?

I think the best time for birding the Salish Sea is in winter when certainly the great flocks of waterfowl and other species (I'm looking at you Ancient Murrelets!) are at hand. So there were birds, but they could just as easily be seen from shore. So I relaxed, and just enjoyed what birds were available for staring at. 


Western Grebes

Short-billed Gulls

Lonely Pelagic Cormorant

Bonapart's Gulls in rear, Short-billed Gull down front

Surfbirds, so hard to photograph from a pitching boat

There were about 16 Surfbirds on shell covered rocks, which was
a thrill as I've seldom managed to see more than one at a time, per decade

We were also on the lookout for marine mammals, and there were several species to see.



Sleeping Sea Lion with its body guard - a Black Oystercatcher on the right

Saw dozens and dozens of these 'sea puppies', i.e., Harbor Seals

On the first day we got one short look at a Harbor Porpoise, and I was astounded to manage this one photo that's not ready for prime time.  There were more marine mammals to come on the final day the voyage.

Headed away, 'natch

Orcas!

On the final day of the trip, the captain located a small pod of Orcas. The captain is quite familiar with the San Juan Island Orcas and their kin. He said what we were viewing was a pair of female Orca, accompanied by their large, yearling calves.

It's always a great day when I can watch whales


Mom Orca and her yearling calf

All of the above showcases the days at sea. Now for a little on the late day time spent on the island of San Juan, in Roche Harbor. 

Roche Harbor, seen from the docks

Both days on the island I took advantage of the proffered golf cart ride uphill to the condo where I stayed. Contrarywise, both mornings I hoofed it from the condo down to the dock to board the boat. 
The day on boarded started with a home cooked breakfast, and natch, later there was lunch. Around 3PM each day we were taken to Roche Harbor, a cute town on San Juan Island.   

View of the condo I roomed in

At the end of each morning's hike downhill, during which I birded, the hike's end wended down to the town's cobbled streets and pathways.

Cobbled walkway under arbor that leads down to to the piers

Buckets of Hyacinths and Daffodils 




Hellebore

I love spending as much time as possible on pelagic cruises. So I was a tad sad as the boat headed back to the docks at John Wayne Marina. But wait! There was one more surprise. There, as the boat pulled up to the pier, I spotted a small brown 'dog' lolling on its back, on the wooden deck. Then the 'dog's' long tail swung around I realized it was a wild River Otter quickly skittered off and dove into the water. A lovely last minute trip bonus, and somehow I was the only one who spotted the slick and slender marine critter, a lovely welcome home gift just for me.