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Hula Returns to Sequim

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Thursday, August 15, 2019

Te Puia, Māori Arts & Crafts Institute, with a side of Thermal Wonder

Geothermal Valley in Te Puia
This evening's fun started with a van ride to pick up other participants. Everyone was eager for our tour of Te Puia, and our driver was a hoot. There was a young woman from Chile with her Mom. The she translated for her Mom who was - like Ila and me - monolingual. We chatted with them on and off all night.









Arriving at the center our driver gave us the lo down on what we had to look forward to.

The map gives a good idea of the size of the facilities and its land







All started with a walking tour.  For a laugh, we were given a go at pronouncing the word on the sign below... For a second I thought we were in Wales, visiting Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch.


We visited the beautiful & exquisitely carved Maori food storage , and we were allowed to climb underneath to see where food was stored.

Loosely speaking, this is a Maori
Tupperware Container. Really!
Our guide was a wonderful young woman who has many relatives that also work and make art at the Maori Arts and Crafts Institute. There they work at indoctrinating their youth so the old arts and ways of producing art do not fall by the wayside.





Here our guide showed us her tattoos. One arm tatto tells her personal story, and the other shows her family's history.










There were several artists working on projects, and we viewed them from an overhead walkway.









A young artist, in his teens or early 20s, engraving a piece of art.













Traditional Maori clothing
made from wild flax












Wild New Zealand Flax, that is scraped and worked to make textiles.

I got a huge kick out of watching our guide's aunt demonstrating how to make their traditional flax into decorative strips, which are then used in traditional ware. It reminded me very much of how the California Maidu and Miwok work tule. Here's a quicky video of the demo.


And the other thing that thrilled me to pieces in a quirky way was this pair of stuffed birds. They are a male and female Huia birds. The females had long curved bills, but the males had straight bills. They had a beautiful song and went extinct due to loss of habitat, hunting them for their white-tipped black tail feathers for fashion and for the Maori chefs to wear. And as that wasn't bad enough, the species was a ground nester too, so when cats, rats, stoats, weasels and Australian Possums were imported their nests and nestlings were easy prey.


These birds were at the Arts & Crafts center and I thought the tour would mention them but didn't. It was amazing to see the pair, like seeing a stuffed passenger pigeon or a dodo.

We were walked down to the thermal area to look at the geysers and thermals by daylight. We would return again after our feast.


On the walk back from the thermal area we visited the Kiwi exhibit where one of the most iconic New Zealand birds snuck around in the dark trying its little best to keep up from seeing it. I am dead set on coming back some day to see one of New Zealand's Kiwi species in the wild.


We had a second guide, who was also a Maori of New Zealand. She was also quite nice and I loved hearing the accent. She chose a young man in the group to be our 'chef' and then taught us how we were to behave because we were to enter a genuine Maori meeting house, and if it was done incorrectly in a manner that insulted the Maori of the meeting house, we wouldn't be allowed in.
A daytime peek inside the Maori meeting
house prior to the evening's presentation
Another video, this one 2 mins also. The roasted Hāngi is removed from the underground oven, or umu (pronounced 'emu'). The last bit is what our guide told us was necessary for us to enter the Maori meeting house.  She had a very pretty & interesting accent.


The Hāngi we attended was marvelous. The food was great, nothing too exotic, meaning no Kiwi on the menu. There was plenty of food, plenty of time to eat it and chat. I can't believe I was so into the feast that I took not one photo at the Hāngi. That doesn't happen v. often, does it?

Back to the Maori meeting house. Fun! There is a video of the dances and singing. This final video, shows a nice variety of the wonderful presentations that were performed for us. At one point they asked for volunteers to dance, using 'poi', two white balls, held together by a long string. They are rhythmically swung in time to the music. Women volunteers were recruited to come up on stage and dance with poi. My lack of skill did not stop me from volunteering!  Ila filmed a bit of me screwing up on stage, which isn't included here, but that's Ok, there are plenty of knowledgeable dancers here doing themselves proud.


After all the dancing, and all the feasting, a tram drove us back down to the thermals. Along the way Ila and I chatted with our tour buds, the Chilean ladies. Lots of fun chatting with them. When we got to the thermal area we were offered a nice cup of hot chocolate, and not a one of the four of us had any room for even a sip of cocoa. Honestly, had I drunk a cup, there would have been a pretty messy and spontaneous thermal explosion, I can tell you!
The walkway along the thermal
path - the geysers were lit up
The rocks that are sat are always warm, from the
thermal activity beneath them. Kind of relaxing
The thermals of Te Puia are one of the world's great thermal wonders, which includes Yellowstone National Park and Hawaii's magnificent Kilauea. Made me wildly happy to think I've been lucky enough to visit them all. And I haven't even been blown up as yet so that's lucky.

Lake Tikitapau and the Buried Village of Te Wairoa

Rototura Scenery
Welcome Swallow
Today was a BIG day, so it will take two posts to spit it all out. The day started with a nice drive out of Rototura, to the out back.  We stopped to look around at Lake Tikiapau, 'Blue Lake'. There was a guard rail that the 'Welcome Swallows' that is the actual species name, not their attitude towards guests.


Little New Zealand Grebes - Dab Chicks - were doing their dance routine on the lake. Not sure if I was seeing breeding behavior or just bad tempered birdies.


Our next stop was the Buried Village of Te Wairoa. I knew nothing of the place when we arrived. The village was once the center of a Christian monastery and village in the mid 1800s. The entire settlement was buried under by the volcanic eruption Mt Tarawera.

Museum and Archeological Centre of Te Wairoa
Ila went right on in, but I heard bird song so wanted to stay and find the birds. Across the little roadway from the museum, was a massive forest with 50 and 60 ft high trees. There was bird song coming from the trees and pigeon sized birds fluttering around. After getting loads of crap photos (too far off) I went in the museum, and met the greeter, a lady in Victorian dress. We had a nice chat about the birds, which were Tui. 

I took a short tour of the museum which explained there was once a beautiful pink and white 'terrace' the photos of which look much like Yellowstone National Park's Mammoth Terraces. Here are comparisons.
Te Wairoa 'Pink & White Terraces'
New Zealand


On the left: The Pink & White terraces, which no longer exist. They were destroyed by the Mt Tarawera volcano. The terraces were buried as well as the village that was there.
Mammoth Hot Springs,
Yellowstone, Wyoming



The Mammoth Terraces of north Yellowstone are still there (knock on wood) and hopefully will remain there for a long, long, time.
Following the museum tour Ila and I settled on the back porch to rehydrate with some cool drinks and to enjoy the trees and flowering shrubs.  There were good birds there too.
Common Myna, non-native
There one other native at the buried village that I got to view. It was climbing in a little shrub on the patio, busy either eating insects, nectar and whatever it could get. So pretty!

Best photo of the BellBird - a Native Species!
Lovely curved bill on the Bellbird





The Bellbird was fun to watch. It dug around in the flowers, as if it couldn't decide what it wanted for lunch.




Leaving the Museum we headed out on the road where the scenery was lost on me because I was guilty of 'DWB' which is 'Driving While Birding'.  These are some of the photos I got of the local birds.
European Goldfinches (non-native)
This bird was one that made my day. A 'Sacred Kingfisher'. The North American Belted Kingfishers never allow approach closer than .5 to 1 mile. The birdies need their space! But this New Zealand native Kingfisher couldn't have cared less that I was right beneath it, taking dozens of photos.
Not at all grumpy but absolutely native: Sacred Kingfisher






 European Song Thrush, Non-native
In a quiet residential neighborhood with the usual drop-dead gorgeous homes, there were lots of flowering shrubbery, with lovely, iridescent Tui birds scrambling about in the branches. Got fairly decent photos of the birds. They are strange in that they have a double poofy ball of white feathers that hang down at their throats, which are ornamental. 
Tui birds look black from a distance, but iridescent green and even bronze up close.
The Tui birds are messengers to the gods to the Maori. Nice work if you can get it.

Tui spiritual meaning: Because of their personality, the Tui are associated with life fulfilment, confidence and spiritual harmony. In Māori culture the Tui has powerful significance. They act as messengers to the gods in the heavens.

Tuis are Honeyeaters and have 'brush' tongues for gathering flower nectar


By the time we headed back to Rototura, we were starvin' like Marvin. We headed downtown and after searching up and down the streets we wound up  at The Blind Finch (Ila's idea, not mine, I swear!).
Humongous Lamb-burger




The restaurant specializes in burgers, so I tried a lamb burger for lunch and it came with a truckload of fries.  Rather bad news as tonight we will be attending a Maori feast. Don't want to go to a feast with a full belly.
Post way-filling lunch, we headed back to the hotel. There I spent an hour or three catching up on my journaling and resting. Ila went for a walk, treasuring hunting at the local gift shops. When Ila got back we headed to the lobby where we were picked up by a friendly taxi driver for our ride to the Maori Te Puia Center where tonight's adventures take place.