Birding Kaua'i

Ooo, was out early 'nuff today, in search of Hawaiian birds. I didn't plan very well, so my day was hit & miss, but happily, my 'good old fashioned DUMB luck' held up as it usually does for those of us born in the Chinese Year-of-the-Rabbit.

For starters I visited the Nawiliwilli Harbor area and the Menehune Fish Ponds. The 'Alekoko fish ponds are where in ancient times, Hawaiian royalty kept fresh water fish which were an important source of protein. I couldn't believe it, but there were zero birds visible while I was there. Oh well!

View of the beautiful Menehune Fish Pond taken from the overhead viewing platform

I visited the grounds of the Marriot Hotel, which amazingly, had quite a few species romping around its spacious golf course and grounds.

Saw dozens of Nene getting in their 9 holes on the golf course

A striking White-breasted Shama was unexpected

and it didn't seem to enjoy the tropical breezes quite as much as I did

 One of the biggest surprises though was the Hawaiian Gallinule, which I've frequently searched for on the Big Island of Hawaii without finding, so seeing many of them on Kaua'i was a thrill. They are visually identical to the Gallinules on the mainland, but the powers that be declare them to be a unique species in their own right. Who am I to argue?

The Hawaiian Gallinules had fantastic waxy looking red shields on their noggins

Showing off a colorful head

How's this for a perky birdie? A Red-crested Cardinal

Noisy and bold, Common Myna, which seem to be everywhere in Hawaii

Java Rice Sparrows - cheeky little things

Sweet little Zebra Dove

On my iPhone GPS, the Marriot grounds show as a wildlife refuge, which is strange, but I guess if the birds are there, why not declare it a wildlife refuge and ensure the bird's safety. The birds obviously don't care if someone plays through their territory, so why should we? There were roads that didn't really look like you could drive through them, but you could, so being lazy, I did. I even drove to the farthest reaches of Kalapaki road, from which I could see the lighthouse.

 Late in the day I headed north on the island and had a huge stroke of luck. I was crossing a little bridge on Kuhio Highway, and I spotted some dark polka dots on the river - Hawaiian Coots!  Another species that is considered seperate from it's identicle cousins on the mainland. I tried to get to where I could photograph them on foot, but the the shrubbery by the bridge was too thick to traverse. So, I got my not-to-good shots by driving onto the bridge and haulting... happily I managed to get my shots during a total lull in traffic.

Another bolt of luck happened after I reached the northernmost bits of the island you can reach by car. I meant to hike the Kilalau Trail, which traverses up mountain for a view of the ocean and any pelagic species that might fly by. I had my flashlight, as the best time to bird the trail is around sunset and I didn't want to get stranded after dark. I had a little backpack and I reached the trailhead...

The trail looked like a bit of an ankle masher to me

And lost my nerve!  The trail was composed of rocks and tree roots, in an evil conspiracy of breaking my fat ankles. Uh... maybe next time.

So, somewhat disappointed, I got back in the car, heading off. I was driving past a beautiful little Taro Root plantation.

Taro Root Plantation

I happened to look over at the right second, and what did I see? HURRAH!

Koloa! The Hawaiian Duck I'd been looking for.

Talk about your dumb luck!

Do not need luck to see chickens on Kaua'i - they're everywhere on the island

Kaua'i!

Saturday morning Ron, Jeannie, Stephanie and myself did some island hopping from the Big Island to Oahu. Next we flew over the isle of Molakai and on to Kaua'i.  I've been extraordinarily lucky enough to visit the Big Island three times now, and now, beyond my wildest dreams I was going to get to visit another island for a week - Kauai'i. 

Hope I get down there onto Molakai someday

Ron tells me, each island has a different subculture and feel to it, and now I am experiencing it for myself. My first impression is the Big Island of Hawaii is the baby island. It's fresh and new, still a hot bed of volcano activity. In contrast, Kaua'i is the oldest of the Hawaiian chain of islands and like it's inhabitants, has seen it all. There are no vast fields of lava on Kaua'i that I've seen so far, but maybe I just haven't seen enough of the island yet.

Right off the coconut, we got a rental car at the Lihue airport, then drove up the Kaua'i coast a bit, to Waimea. Did we go to Waimea to view spot where Captain Cook once set foot on the magical isle of Kaua'i? Were we hankering to explore the range where Hawaiian 'Paniolo' - cowboys - round up the lanky long-horn cattle? Uh... no. We wanted to visit 'Jo Jo's' for a nice big helping of shave ice. Hey, having shave ice is practically obligatory while on the islands.

What the heck is shave ice? I assumed it was just what, when I was growing up in New York City, we used to call 'Italian ices'. Shaven ice fluff, with a super sweet flavored syrup drooled over the top. Nope! Shave ice is so much more. There were oodles of flavor options, 60 in fact, but we unanimously opted for the most interesting sounding one, the 'Halo Halo'.

Halo Halo is a mix of, get this, it's amazing - coconut curls, coconut gel, Azuki beans, pineapple gel, sweet fruit mix, sweet palm fruit, purple yam jam topped with Haupia cream. We could have had ice cream added to all that. Was it good? Just check out Step's smile on the right here.


After our shave ice adventure, we returned to Lihue Airport where I picked up my rental car, then we caravan-ed east and north to Princeville and our Gi'normous time share where each of us had our own bedroom with bathroom. The apartment also had a beautiful & back balcony, with a view of tropical rainforest. So far I'm liking Kaua'i but I can't wait to see what I can discover on my big Hawaiian Birdie Hunt tomorrow.

Big Island Joy

Lacy canopy at Lava Trees State Park 

This week was a whirlwind, and amazinglyit felt as if I've lived here on the Big Island with Ron, Jeannie & Stephanie for ages. Usually time seems to race by, but perhaps because of the novelty of being here, time moved in slow motion. Hum... almost as if the Island's heart, the concept of 'On Hawaii time' is more than just a saying, it's a fact. I certainly know I'm believing it.

The past few days we visited Hilo and shopped at its wonderful Farmer's Market. The few shots below just show the little food vending area. There are other sections that sell everything from soaps, t-shirts, trinkets and art.

All the veggies you can eat or turn your nose up at if you're not into FRESH.

Flowers everywhere

Freshest ginger root I've ever seen in my life. Fresh, it looks waxy and has a pink blush.

 When we were on the Hilo side of the island we toured every square inch we could get access to.

We viewed the area that was freshly ravaged by lava in the 1990s

Stephie and Jeannie checking out a little snorkling area south of Hilo (East side of the Big Island)

We had the repeat joy of viewing the Waipi`o Valley. We didn't go down into it, as it requires a 4WD to do so. Don't need 4WD to stand at the edge and feel the breeze on your face. 

Waipi`o Valley - Valley of the Kings

The trot down to the Wa'pio overlook - that's me, in green taking Jeannie & Stephanie's pics     photo by Ron Huey

 Ron nudged me into hiking with the gang at Akaka Falls, a Hawaii State Park. It was, according to the map, only .25 miles on the loop trail, but between you and me - it was at least 47 miles around!

Gang of Three at overlook in Akaka Falls State Park

Close up shot taken from the overlook in the previous photo    photo by Ron Huey

Akaka Falls Park is all ups and downs

Beautiful, one of dozens & dozens of beautiful plants in Akaka Falls Park

Lush, lush & LUSH

Late in the day we visited Lava Trees State Park (right) where we walked the loop trail. The trail was level and only .7 mile so no whinging was heard from Ms. Nowalkiewalkie (that would be me).  The lava trees were formed in the 1700s when a lava flow overwhelmed (you think?) O'hia trees, leaving skeletal lava rock piles in the shape of the long-gone trees.

Tromping down the trail at Lava Trees

Lava Trees

 

The entire park echoed, "KO-KEY! KO-KEY!" Everyone, including me, at first thought we were hearing some kind of loud & obnoxious bird. Then I recalled some PBS show or the other & realized we were hearing an accidentally imported froggie from Cuba, called Coqui frogs. LOUD.








What was my favorite activity on the island? Even including the birding, I would have to say the Snorkling was AWESOME. You know my hear belongs to birding, but if I can't be crawling through shrubbery, looking for birds, I want to be submerged in warm tropical waters.

Stephanie & Jeannie getting ready to climb into the waves

 Our first snorkling spot was just outside of Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau, a mouthful that means 'Place of Refuge', which is a National Historical Park. Getting in and out of the water at the beach there is somewhat challenging, what with slippery lava rocks and rolling waves. I was excited because I got myself a water proof camera for underwater photography and was excited to try it out. My first outing was so-so because I had the camera on a screwy setting, & the water was slightly cloudy at times. Still - I'm not fussing!

Didn't even see the skinny Pacific Trumpetfish' (yellow stick on left) until I checked the photos post snorkling

Loads of sea life, urchins & funny little puffer fish

Score! A Humahumanukanukapaua'a! Otherwise known as a Lagoon Triggerfish

A hungry sea turtle visited one of the tide pools, spending hours eating algae or some such stuff on the rocks

 Now, I had a ball, but Jeannie and Stephie hit the big time! They swam out at least three times further than I did and swam with Spinner Dolphins! Jeannie said she was in touching distance of a baby Spinner and would have touched it had not its Mama given her the 'stink eye'.  And Stephanie said she looked up to see 30+ dolphins headed right for her!  She freaked, but the dolphins just shot past her. WOW!  They told me about the dolphins (which were in the bay the whole time we were there) but I only got half way to the dolphins when my lungs and energy levels told me I would be wiser to stay closer to shore. Oh well. Some soar with the eagles, the rest of us wallow with the turtles.

Ron & Jeanie on Kahalu'lu Beach

 On the right are pics we took of Spinner Dolphins leaping. They did that all afternoon long. Click on the pics for a slightly better view.



This afternoon we went to a spot that was new for me, just north of Kauai-Kona at Kahalu'u Beach Park. Holy mother of calm seas - it. was. AWESOME!  Access to the water was way easier than at the Place of Refuge and once in, the water was clear. I could LIVE in that little inlet.

***Click on any photo for a MUCH larger views ***

 Black Durgeon Triggerfish - loads of these out there!

 Only saw one of these little beauties - a Forceps Butterflyfish

Moorish Idol 

 Little Raccoon Butteflyfish - this one thought I was wonderful... or hiding goodies from it. It wouldn't leave me alone

 Sargent Major and an Orangespine Surgeonfish

 Tiny Blue Boxfish

 Saddle Wrasse

 Lined Butterfly fish

Fancy schmansy Butter... I mean, 'Ornate' Butterfly Fish

Orangeband Surgeonfish (comes with its own racing stripe!)

The Hawai'i State Fish, a Picasso or Reef Triggerfish. Famous for the old
Hawaiian song with lyrics "...and the Humahumanukanukāpuau'a swam by..."

IN YO' FACE CLAIRE!