Kenya's Maasai Mara Reserve - Day 1

 

The largest of Africa's 'BIG FIVE' 

Mr. eagle, apparently waiting
for a bus or something

My tour group was up, fed and out early today. On our way out, there was an African Fishing Eagle on the side of the dirt road, quite close to the lodge. We stopped and offered it a ride, but it seemed to have other plans. 

A bit later the van stopped so we could watch Olive Baboons also loitering along the roadway. Everyone laughed to see one large male baboon, with ZERO shame. 

Cover yourself, you rude baboon!

Nearby a  baboon mother industriously groomed her youngster.

Mom's insistence on
cleanliness is so embarrassing

A few feet off the ground another mother baboon held a cute infant, while an older youngster sat at her side. 

Mom, baby and junior

Soon we headed south for Maasai Mara, another Kenyan National Reserve. It's a little north of the Tanzania border. The Reserve is famed for it's density of African wildlife. 

There were many goat/cattle/and sheep jams along the way that slowed us down a bit. 

Halfway through the morning driver our van stopped at a HUMONGOUS tourist shop, where we could use the rest rooms and purchase anything we decided we couldn't live without.

There were absolutely thousands of thingies one could purchase in the store, but myself and Ila were set on getting additional bags because we each had one main bag, which threatened to explode if even one more item was added. We were told negotiating for goods was OK, so we drove a hard bargain with a sales associate, purchasing 2 large zippered - and quite beautiful bags, for the low low price of forty shillings each. I'm certain I wasn't overcharged by more than ten shillings so it was quite the triumph, lol. 

Get your trinkets and tchotchkes here!

A couple of hours later we reached the guarded entrance to Maasai Mara. Just before we arrived, Jafar told us to be sure to keep our windows closed, because the Maasai women sell their wares to van passengers and they do NOT take no for an answer. Then he got out of the van, to get us all checked in with the guards, and he didn't close his window!

I love the Masai women in their colorful clothing

There was no chance I was going to buy anything from anyone, no how! Having ASSUMED I could get Kenyan & Tanzanian cash at the airport, I was without any local money since we landed in Nairobi. I hadn't as much as 2 Kenyan coins to rub together, and what I'd purchased so far on this trip was through my debit card. 

And as Jafar warned, within seconds the van was surrounded by insistent women, waving pretty, handmade goods at us, while shouting their prices at us, and looking thoroughly annoyed that we weren't buying up all the goods on the spot. 

"twelve shillings M'am, 3 necklaces for only twelve shillings!"

It felt like Jafar was gone for 20 weeks, not just 20 minutes, but we were all of us relieved when he returned to the van and we were on our way again. 

It was after twelve noon when we rolled into Sarova Mara Game Camp. 

Game Camp Gateway

Nice map of the reserve's grounds, just to the left of the reservation desk

Again, we were sorted into our rooms, or in this case buildings. We followed the porters to our assigned buildings - each being canvas tents on permanent platforms.

The grounds were lush, and the 'tent' buildings are in the background

Oh were we impressed with the room! Between the beds, just above the little shelf were oodles of electric sockets for all our electronics to charge up. Truly heaven! And note at the foot of each bed there is a trunk on which to put one's luggage. 

Lovely BIG windows

Add to that, there were large, net covered canvas 'windows', on both sides of the room so a lovely breeze blew over one's bed at night. Ahhhh! 





And the 'tent' had it's own bathroom complete with a nice tub/shower combo. Note the happy lady in the bathroom vanity mirror below.

Snazzy bathroom area

We have a routine now. After arriving at our lodge & assuming our rooms, we take lunch in a huge building with an abundant buffet. Then we digest, I go birding, and at 4PM it's time for us to gather together for our evening safari.

Jafar told us we would be viewing the African Big Five, which were the five species most prized and difficult to hunt. The big five are Elephant, Rhinos, Cape Buffalo, Lions and Leopards. A nice anagram for the Big Five is 'BRELL'. We saw several of the Big Five this evening.  

A Big Fiver - a Cape Buffalo

This Cape Buffalo was content to loll in a nice mud puddle

We spent a few good minutes watching this Topi, an antelope, because it was waiting for its close up shots. The dark mark on its haunch is not a stain, that's its normal coloring - a nice map of Africa. 

A wonderfully posed Topi Antelope 

Huzzah! We finally ran into the largest of the Big Five - the Bush Elephant, and lots of them. There were plenty of young elephants as well as seasoned matriarchs. 

A grand lady

Baby tusker, quite far from Mom

Giraffes happily slurped up the leaves of the many Acacia trees. There are several species of giraffes and the ones we've seen are Masai Giraffes - they have leaf shaped spots. 

A parade of White-bearded Wildebeests/Gnus, more than just the pair below, strolled by. 

Two Gnu

There were other predators seen throughout the early evening. 

Silver-backed Jackal

Normally, periodically Jafar's radio would release a blur of Swahili, as the many tour guides chatted, sharing what animals they were locating. After one such blur of radio chat, Jafar told us to fasten our seatbelts! 

My best blurred shot of the Bat-eared Fox

He tore off, with no explanation. I got excited because I knew he wasn't tearing off after seeing any ordinary animal. Along the way he stopped to point out a little Bat-eared Fox that was off in the bush. Jafar told us to hurry with our photos of the fox, as there wasn't much time to lose. I took loads of shots of the fox but all were blurred as the van hadn't  complete halted.

Suddenly we were veering off road, and we could see at least a half dozen travel company vans circling a bunch of shrubs in an otherwise open meadow... and there it was! A totally chill Leopard! 

Didn't think we'd be lucky enough to see a Leopard - one of the Big 5

On safari, you realize the animals get blasé about all the tourist vehicles. The wildlife don't bother the vans and the vans, more or less, don't bother the wildlife. 

Anyway how thrilling to see this leopard, right out in the open, just enjoying the night air and surveying its kingdom. It's good to be next in line to the throne of the Lion King! 

Several Lions & Lionesses lolled  around in the grass. Honestly, lolling is something that cats, both great and small are particularly good at.

Her Majesty

What a day! I didn't bother posting any of the numerous birds I got on film, but here is my best bird of the day by far. Size of a skinny turkey,  Here is a Black-breasted Bustard. Nearly wet myself getting to see this large savannah bird. 

Black-breasted Bustard

It was getting dark when we finally headed back to camp... it was a half hour past the time that vans are supposed to be safely back at camp. So it was a mad dash for Jafar to drive us back to camp.

We stopped along the way to see where a leopard was supposed to have been seen. We got stuck and I know I was fretting we might have to walk the rest of the way back to Sarova Mara Game Camp. But nope, Jafar did an astounding and fast job of getting us unstuck and we were soon safe in camp, just in time for dinner of course. 

Today we completed seeing Africa's Big Five: Cape Buffalo, both Rhino species, Elephant, Lion and Leopard. Will wonders  never cease!

Kenya's Nakuru National Park

 Entry to Nakuru National Park

Having left the Nairobi hotel mid morning, our tour guide, Jafar, drove us along the wide rough roads of Nairobi's outskirts. My mind was torn in two as I tried to both take in the busy shops, that bordered the road, and also see what birds were flying around overhead. I honestly think that two eyes are just not enough, for me anyway. 

The Saturday morning shoppers of Nairobi were out in force, either selling or buying their weekly goods. 
Looking overhead I periodically stopped to fiddle with my phone trying to find out what kind of birds I might be seeing. I saw Pied Crows, and was sad there was not time for photographing them, and the many vultures? Gak! Hopefully there will be plenty of time for better looks. 

When we passed out of Nairobi, the scenery was largely bereft of people, but it was green and lush. 

Along the way, as promised by Jafar, we had a rest break, 2 hours into our drive to Nakuru.
We stopped at a massive tourist stop. There were umpteen travel companies also there. 

The rest stop was a cute shop with loads of everything touristy

AARRGGHH! Where to even begin looking....

Out of everything I saw at the store, what I wanted most was what would be most difficult to traipse around with for 2 weeks -  a nice, big Ostrich Egg!

Another item too... large(?) to transport was a carved wooden Cape Buffalo, scratching his chin with his hind hoof, and showing off those masculine bollocks. 

Our drive continued and we saw some cool animals as a side benefit. Giraffes, a Black Rhino, Thompson's Gazelles and lots of Warthogs.

Black Rhino pretty far off, to the left

Wart Hogs

It was around 1 PM when we reached the entrance to Nakuru (photo at top), with its Rhino entry gate.The minute our van halted, I was out, and looking for birds. 

Eurasian Hoopoe

 I actually gasped, when I spotted a  Hoopoe, hopping around on the lawn. The Hoopoe is a bird I never thought I'd see in this lifetime. I remember reading about them eons ago, having read about the strange little bird in James Michener's The Source. 

I could have stared at - and photographed the Hoopoe all day, but Jafar came to collect me so the group could be on its way.

Less than an hour later, we arrived at Sankara Lion Hill, adjacent to Nakuru National Park. 

Our group was escorted to the reception area. There we got our cabin assignments, and our luggage was then portered to our rooms. 
                                                              Our assigned room was a distance from, but not too far from the receptionists area. We were told the mosquito netting would be lowered over our beds in the evening as a courtesy (even though Ila and I have yet to see any mosquitos!).

Our room had a little patio area to sit & bird watch ('moi') or just relax (Ila). 

The next agenda item was lunch, which took place in an exceeding large, open sided banquet facility.

The hostess assigned our group to a long row of tables, which is ours now for our meals today. 

Entrance area of the huge dining hall

All around were various stations where many different foods were ready for loading onto one's plate. It was difficult to choose what to eat! Indian, Kenyan or British food? Salads, soups or regular entrees?

From the dozens and dozens of offerings, decided to have
the grilled lamb, the stew and 'Papadums', a cracker bread.

I am not about to starve to death on this vacation. There was plenty of time, as we were all on our own until our evening game drive at 4:30. So I chatted with my travel group, enjoyed my lunch, then took a walk to check out the local birds.

I did not have to wander far. Just outside the dining area was a branch (center photo) 
hung between 2 trees. The branch was carved out on top and filled with bird food goodies. 

Hanging over the feeding trough was a big sign listing all the birds one might see. Now, obviously the trick was to be able to attach a name to the correct bird. And honestly, so many birdies, so little time! Here are a few that showed up.

White-browed Robin Chat

Vitelline Masked-Weaver

Greater Blue-eared Starling

Red-billed Firefinch

I feasted on seeing new birds for more than an hour, then wandered back to our cabin to view birds from the 'front porch'. Later I visited the Sarova Lion Hill gift shop, treating myself to a tee-shirt. Then when 4:30 rolled around, we were all off on our evening's Game Drive. 

Savaro Lion Hill is near to Nakuru lake and we headed for the lake. The drive however began overlooking forested areas. 

Impala

Impressive horns on an Impala Buck

Olive Baboons were scattered everywhere at Nakuru

Water Bucks and a few Zebra

No need to identify this hooved beauty

I hadn't expected to be impressed by Zebra, but wow, they are striking and outrageous in their stark colors. I asked Jafar which species, of the 3 known zebra species, these were, and I was told Imperial Zebra. That puzzled me as I never heard that name before. I think these pajama-clad asses are what used to be called Grevy's Zebra. 

And speaking of species, we had a look at our 2nd species of Rhinos - White Rhinos. They were in a muddy puddle, and absolutely not white. The mouths of this species are broad, hense 'wide', and that morphed into 'white' - a misnomer.  Black Rhinos have a hook-like upper lip, in no way 'wide'. 

Two White Rhinos in a mud puddle

Female Impala near Lake Nakuru's shore 

Many Great White Pelicans and cormorants were lolling down by the water.

The lighting was horrible, but there were many Great White Pelicans

And then, there they were - a bjillion flamingos! The first wild ones I've ever seen. Jafar told us there were 2 species out there - Greater Flamingos and Lesser Flamingos.

Greater & Lesser Flamingos - not that I could tell one from the other!

I felt rather boggled, because the bright light reflecting off the water bleached out the details of the birds. I hope I get a better chance to stare at and ID the flamingos at a later date on this trip. 

Cape Teals (Ducks) identified a
long time after spotting them

Naturally Flamingos weren't the only birds around. There were lots of herons, ducks, shorebirds and gulls. I started shooting photos of everything I could get a shot of. Photos today, identification at my leisure

Lake Nakuru

Saddle-billed Stork & to its right, a ensy Wood Sandpiper

One or two more pelicans in the front, with 
lots of Flamingos in the far distance 

                                                             

White-faced Whistling Ducks

My noggin was in absolute overload with the birds and game that we saw. Then we hit the big time. Jafar located some more 'big game' for us. My very first WILD African Lion. WAKE UP YOU King of Beasts! I'm joking of course, we were all thrilled to the core to see the lion. 

'Yes, I'm the King of....ZZZZZZZzzzzzz'

A bit further off was a second lion, awake I suppose, keeping guard for his weary brother. 

Both Mufasa & Scar are in this photo - find them for yourself

Our van was one of about a half dozen that enjoyed viewing the lions. I honestly had zero expectations of seeing any lions or other big cats on this trip. Oh yee of little faith. 

Red-billed Oxpeckers

Almost as entrancing as the lions was seeing little Oxpeckers grooming the Zebras, picking insects and whatnot from the Zebra's hide. 

 
I think I'm mostly fascinated that watching the little birds pecking all the hell over other animals doesn't seem to creep me out as much as one would expect. UGH! OK, it's a wee bit creepy. 

Oxpecker doing a little 'pit' work 

The Zebras all looked a bit bored with their 'detailing' crews

Mom Olive Baboon with a baby on board

Tawny Eagle

African Fishing Eagle

Whew! It was getting dark when we finally headed back to Sarova Lion Hill for a nice dinner and a chance all to get acquainted with our cabins. We saw so much wildlife today, it is difficult to imagine we are going to see much more on our trip. I must have seen a zillion new bird species and I got photos of pretty much every last one. Tomorrow we head out to Kenya's Maasai Mara. 

Here is a mercifully short video of the White Rhinos and some Tommies.