Sailing the Salish Sea

In 2019, when I was living in Port Angeles, I signed up for an Audubon sponsored 3 day sail trip, north into the island strewn waters. I signed on & paid up immediately. Then, guess what - COVID! Long story short, the trip was put on hold... for 3 years! This year the wildlife tour finally set sail. 

Girlie Belted Kingfisher on Rigging at Sequim Port

on the left, the Glacier Spirit

The 'voyage' was 3 days, 2 nights sailing around the San Juan Islands, in search of birds and marine mammals. I was a tad disappointed because back in 2020, the trip promised the 2 nights were to be at a Canadian Bed & Breakfast. This year we'd be staying in Washington state on San Juan Island. 

The Glacier Spirit was docked in the John Wayne Marina, only about 20 minutes from my house. In California I always had to drive some 3 or more hours to get to whatever boat I booked, often spending the night prior to the trip in a local hotel so I wouldn't have to leave Fair Oaks at 3AM to get to my ride on time. So that's points for convenience.

The inner cabin where most of my time was spent

I have to say, I was rather disappointed but that was on me, not the trip itself. I have been used to Jaunts on the Pacific Ocean, where you can find Albatross, Petrels, Shearwaters, exotic gulls, and don't get me started on the whales and other marine mammals! This however is the Salish Sea, inland from the Pacific Ocean and therefore I wasn't about to see any of the above mentioned pelagic birds. Duh, right?

I think the best time for birding the Salish Sea is in winter when certainly the great flocks of waterfowl and other species (I'm looking at you Ancient Murrelets!) are at hand. So there were birds, but they could just as easily be seen from shore. So I relaxed, and just enjoyed what birds were available for staring at. 

Western Grebes

Short-billed Gulls

Lonely Pelagic Cormorant

Bonapart's Gulls in rear, Short-billed Gull down front

Surfbirds, so hard to photograph from a pitching boat

There were about 16 Surfbirds on shell covered rocks, which was
a thrill as I've seldom managed to see more than one at a time, per decade

We were also on the lookout for marine mammals, and there were several species to see.

A snoozing mob of Stellar's Sea Lions

Sleeping Sea Lion with its body guard - a Black Oystercatcher on the right

Saw dozens and dozens of these 'sea puppies', i.e., Harbor Seals

On the first day we got one short look at a Harbor Porpoise, and I was astounded to manage this one photo that's not ready for prime time.  There were more marine mammals to come on the final day the voyage.

Headed away, 'natch

Orcas!

On the final day of the trip, the captain located a small pod of Orcas. The captain is quite familiar with the San Juan Island Orcas and their kin. He said what we were viewing was a pair of female Orca, accompanied by their large, yearling calves.

It's always a great day when I can watch whales

Mom Orca and her yearling calf

All of the above showcases the days at sea. Now for a little on the late day time spent on the island of San Juan, in Roche Harbor. 

Roche Harbor, seen from the docks

Both days on the island I took advantage of the proffered golf cart ride uphill to the condo where I stayed. Contrarywise, both mornings I hoofed it from the condo down to the dock to board the boat. 

The day on boarded started with a home cooked breakfast, and natch, later there was lunch. Around 3PM each day we were taken to Roche Harbor, a cute town on San Juan Island.   

View of the condo I roomed in

At the end of each morning's hike downhill, during which I birded, the hike's end wended down to the town's cobbled streets and pathways.

Cobbled walkway under arbor that leads down to to the piers

Buckets of Hyacinths and Daffodils 

Hellebore

I love spending as much time as possible on pelagic cruises. So I was a tad sad as the boat headed back to the docks at John Wayne Marina. But wait! There was one more surprise. There, as the boat pulled up to the pier, I spotted a small brown 'dog' lolling on its back, on the wooden deck. Then the 'dog's' long tail swung around I realized it was a wild River Otter.  Quickly, it skittered off and dove into the pier waters. A lovely last minute trip bonus, and somehow I was the only one who spotted the slick and slender marine critter, a lovely welcome home gift just for me. 

Neah Bay

A little bay not too far from Neah Bay

 
Twice a year I visit Neah Bay, which is in the most Northwest corner of the 'lower 48'. I mostly go there to see water birds, but it is worth the 2 hour drive just to see the scenery.

Am sure these 2 rocks have a name but I don't
know what it is. Let's call it 'The Two Sisters'

Last year I also visited Neah Bay. Getting hungry, I stopped by a cute and tiny diner that was far from the main roads. As I climbed the stairs to the Cafe door. it opened. A man there looked at me, and told me the diner was closed. My disappointed face must have looked as hungry as I felt. He told me to go to the main entrance to the cafe and go on in. I did, and there were 2 ladies there, whom I soon found out were members of the Makah Tribe. They were quite friendly, and we immediately began to chat. The man appeared with a menu and urged me to choose something to eat. I eagerly settled on a burger with fries and some kind of interesting beverage - Ginger beer?

A grass and cedar Makah hat
not the one that was shown to me

Italian Soda? I can't quite recall. While the man preped lunch, one of the ladies showed me a photo of a beautiful hat she made for her granddaughter. The hat featured a wolf head - I think they were of the Wolf Clan. The hat was woven of local grasses and strongly reminded me of the Maidu and Miwok hats I used to see at the California State Indian Museum back when I was a docent. 

Soon the man (Mike?) came out with my lunch in a to-go box. I started to dig in my purse to pay for the meal. 

"No, that's alright," he said, "Just don't want you going hungry out here, its on the house."

I. was. flabbergasted. 

My cheeks went all red and I profusely thanked him, and the ladies. When I got home that day I sat right down, writing them a 'thank you' note I dug up the Cafe's name and address on line, and the following day I mailed it. 

A week later the note was returned to me with "Not deliverable at this address"  sprawled across the envelope. 

So that was my secondary task today - to hand deliver the thank you note to the Café. No one was there today so I jammed the envelope into the back door. I hope they find it before rain makes the card into a pile of paper pulp. Oh well, I tried! 

After dropping off the long delayed thank you note, I briefly toured the Makah National Fish Hatchery.

By the roads into the hatchery, there were oodles of blooming 'Skunk Cabbage'. They aren't exactly a rare plant, they're found in my area, but they are always cool to see. I know the young shoots are edible but I've not yet worked up the courage to forage for any. Some day!

Skunk Cabbage everywhere!

The scenery along the Pacific NW coast always makes me think of the book, "The Island of Blue Dolphins'. Not  that I would want to be abandoned to live alone, but just the beauty of the Pacific Ocean is breathtaking. 

The Pacific Ocean

So much for the scenery, as my true purpose for my visit to Neah Bay was birding. The first feathered wonders I spotter were several Bald Eagles up a tree on Neah Bay's main drag.

OK, count the number of eagles in this tree

Close up of the most obvious eagle

TADA!

The main road through Neah Bay parallels the actual bay. In winter there are many species of waterfowl present. Often the birds are quite far out, so only a few, in relatively good focus are showcased here. 

Common Loon in its plain pajamas (non-breeding plumage)

Male Goldeneye sea duck

Armada of White-winged Scoters - a fav of mine

Pigeon Guillemot, showing a hint
 of its crayon red legs

After driving to the Café, where I dropped off the thank you note, Common Mergansers were found on a riverway.

Common Merganser drake and two hens

When I finally had enough of Neah Bay's waterfowl, I headed back to Sequim. I can't wait to visit Neah Bay this winter when the number of waterfowl will be at its height. 

NCM to CNM

Tiny announcement. Today in Clallam County Court,  P.A. Washington, by order of a v.kindly and sweet County judge, my name was officially changed from Norma Claire, to Claire Norma. That is all. You may resume your normal activities.