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Tuesday, November 21, 2023

On to the Serengeti

Kenya here, Tanzania there
Today was a travel day, leaving Kenya, headed for Tanzania, passports at the ready. 
Gateway to the Mara Triangle 
 Before reaching the Tanzania border, our driver had to show paperwork to the Masa Mara Conservancy, as we had to pass through the Masai Mara Triangle. The triangle is a large portion of Maasai Mara National Reserve. The area was both thoughtful and a bit shabby.
Many skulls and teeth of local ex-wildlife decorated the Mara Conservancy signs 


The infamous hole-in-the-ground
While Jafar presented paperwork in the Narok officials, the ladies of my van, headed across the road and over to the rest rooms. Surprise! The first cubby had a hole-in-the-ground toilets I've only ever heard about from friends who visited Asia. I felt determined I was up to the task of 'the Big Squat'. So I marched into the stall... and froze. Nope. Can't do it. At least can't do it without giving my shoes a 'golden shower'. All of us ladies gave up. Luckily we didn't stop checking stalls and we discovered a 'real' toilet nearby. Sadly it was on the men's half of the restroom area so we were forced by happenstance to HYJACK it. We figured the men of our group are quite capable of peeing into a hole in the ground with no trouble.                                                          
Croc skulls, Hippo skulls, anyone for a nice hippo tusk?

It was a bit after 11:30 when the vans arrived at the Tanzania international check point. We said bye-bye to our wonderful guide Jafar, gathered our paperwork and headed upstairs to the Tanzania Customs. Our luggage crossed the border without us, no fuss. I was not to be so lucky.

I had my passport. Weeks ago, after much fuss via the internet I acquired  my Tanzania Visa. On the health records front, I'd thought I was home free, having a note from my primary doctor, proof that  I had all my necessary shots, etc. But one glance at my doctor's note by an official, and I was ushered into an inner office. I was petrified - thought I might have to stay in Kenya by myself, while everyone else sallied forth to the Serengeti. In an inner office a petite officianal greeted me with 'Hello lovely, lovely lady! Welcome!' He grinned at me. 'You do not have adequate paperwork, the yellow card required for your entry to Tanzania.' 

Holy crap.

Miraculously, for a mere 50 American dollars, I was issued the 'indispensable' folding yellow card. The officinal filled it out, signed it, and embossed it. Honestly, as what information he placed on the card was taken from my doctor's note, why wasn't my doctor's note enough? Uh... because someone was hankering for 50 American dollars. 

Gathering our 'stuff'' from the Kenya vans to cross the border
The border crossing 'Adventure' complete, our new driver/tour guide - Wolfgang - drove us to our luncheon spot, in a tiny Tanzanian town.  
The lovely hacienda where we had lunch

We were each given a huge lunch box, stuffed full of chow: bananas, tangerines, boxed juices, buns, lots of roasted chicken and packets of biscuits (that's cookies for you non-Anglophiles/non-Harry Potter fans). 



Our group left behind almost as much food as we ate. The waitresses
were begged to find a good use for the leftovers - other than the trash bin.

Following our lunch stop, was my lifetime thrill: Entering the Serengeti National Park. OMG!


We stopped briefly at a cute little picnic area (of course
I immediately began chasing birds with my camera). 


Nearby was a small mobile shop that had loads of local souvenirs that I managed to convince myself I could live without. So while everyone shopped I resumed chasing after birds for photos. 






Hot dog, got my bird! A Gray-capped Weaver
Our route to our glamping spot was also a safari drive. Our new driver Wolfgang took time to point out wildlife along our route. One of the first animals he showed us was a beautiful Leopard Tortoise.                                                          

There were Masai Giraffes a plenty.
This AWESOME Dark Chanting Goshawk posed all prettily for me
      
We watched a beautiful courting pair of Grey-crowned Cranes 
There were scads of Weaver type birds, busily weaving their nests.

Around 5:30 our group arrived at the Emalakai Camp. The building seen below is the main hang out - consisting of a central dining area.
Our mob entering the Emalakai Authentic Camp

Photo I took from the 'lush' lounging area
with comfy chairs, sofas and tables. 


 A broad deck surrounds the interior dining hall. The deck has lovely areas from which to view passing wildlife.

The deck also has a plush sitting area.  

While the luggage arrived and got sorted, we were all seated in the outdoor lounge and given orientation to our venue for the next couple of days. My favorite info was that we were not to wander around at night, nor were we to leave our tents for breakfast or dinner - without first using walkie talkies to request a escort. The escorts were necessary to insure none of us got carried off by the local wildlife. Not. Kidding!
We were told a lioness was the most recent visitor to camp but other animals also used this human compound their 'extended neighborhood'.  

Once we were all filled in on important info, we were given our tent designations (we were in tent F (please let that not be ironic!). Two porters/ assisted Ila and myself to our tent. Like our previous camp, our tent was canvas and atop a high wooden platform. 

Porters opening (unzipping) our tent
Glamping at its best
OK, both Ila and I were impressed with our massive home for the next couple of days. Our room didn't have 2 Queen sized beds, it had 3. Again, we were told our bed netting would be unfurled for us each evening. Mind... we'd yet to experience any mosquito action, i.e., bites or buzzing. 
our bathroom vanity


Later in the evening, we figured out the use of our walkie talkies and a very nice man escorted us to dinner in the main tent. As per usual, the meal was a magnificent buffet. 

Later in the night, I laid in the confines of my mosquito netted bed and laughed. Outside of our tent, in the black night, the local hyenas sang us the song of their people. I was thoroughly enchanted. I mimicked back the calls to the hyenas and got an answer or two, but I had to shut up after a while, so I could get some sleep. We would have to be up early in the morning, because tomorrow, Ila and I are going to sail over the Serengeti via a hot air balloon. YAY!