Having left the Nairobi hotel mid morning, our tour guide, Jafar, drove us along the wide rough roads of Nairobi's outskirts. My mind was torn in two as I tried to both take in the busy shops, that bordered the road, and also see what birds were flying around overhead. I honestly think that two eyes are just not enough, for me anyway.
The Saturday morning shoppers of Nairobi were out in force, either selling or buying their weekly goods. Looking overhead I periodically stopped to fiddle with my phone trying to find out what kind of birds I might be seeing. I saw Pied Crows, and was sad there was not time for photographing them, and the many vultures? Gak! Hopefully there will be plenty of time for better looks.
When we passed out of Nairobi, the scenery was largely bereft of people, but it was green and lush.
Along the way, as promised by Jafar, we had a rest break, 2 hours into our drive to Nakuru. We stopped at a massive tourist stop. There were umpteen travel companies also there.
The rest stop was a cute shop with loads of everything touristy
AARRGGHH! Where to even begin looking....
Out of everything I saw at the store, what I wanted most was what would be most difficult to traipse around with for 2 weeks - a nice, big Ostrich Egg!
Another item too... large(?) to transport was a carved wooden Cape Buffalo, scratching his chin with his hind hoof, and showing off those masculine bollocks.
Our drive continued and we saw some cool animals as a side benefit. Giraffes, a Black Rhino, Thompson's Gazelles and lots of Warthogs.
Black Rhino pretty far off, to the left
Wart Hogs
It was around 1 PM when we reached the entrance to Nakuru (photo at top), with its Rhino entry gate.The minute our van halted, I was out, and looking for birds.
Eurasian Hoopoe
I actually gasped, when I spotted a Hoopoe, hopping around on the lawn. The Hoopoe is a bird I never thought I'd see in this lifetime. I remember reading about them eons ago, having read about the strange little bird in James Michener's The Source.
I could have stared at - and photographed the Hoopoe all day, but Jafar came to collect me so the group could be on its way.
Less than an hour later, we arrived at Sankara Lion Hill, adjacent to Nakuru National Park.
Our group was escorted to the reception area. There we got our cabin assignments, and our luggage was then portered to our rooms. Our assigned room was a distance from, but not too far from the receptionists area. We were told the mosquito netting would be lowered over our beds in the evening as a courtesy (even though Ila and I have yet to see any mosquitos!).
Our room had a little patio area to sit & bird watch ('moi') or just relax (Ila).
The next agenda item was lunch, which took place in an exceeding large, open sided banquet facility.
The hostess assigned our group to a long row of tables, which is ours now for our meals today.
Entrance area of the huge dining hall
All around were various stations where many different foods were ready for loading onto one's plate. It was difficult to choose what to eat! Indian, Kenyan or British food? Salads, soups or regular entrees?
From the dozens and dozens of offerings, decided to have the grilled lamb, the stew and 'Papadums', a cracker bread.
I am not about to starve to death on this vacation. There was plenty of time, as we were all on our own until our evening game drive at 4:30. So I chatted with my travel group, enjoyed my lunch, then took a walk to check out the local birds.
I did not have to wander far. Just outside the dining area was a branch (center photo) hung between 2 trees. The branch was carved out on top and filled with bird food goodies.
Hanging over the feeding trough was a big sign listing all the birds one might see. Now, obviously the trick was to be able to attach a name to the correct bird. And honestly, so many birdies, so little time! Here are a few that showed up.
White-browed Robin Chat
Vitelline Masked-Weaver
Greater Blue-eared Starling
Red-billed Firefinch
I feasted on seeing new birds for more than an hour, then wandered back to our cabin to view birds from the 'front porch'. Later I visited the Sarova Lion Hill gift shop, treating myself to a tee-shirt. Then when 4:30 rolled around, we were all off on our evening's Game Drive.
Savaro Lion Hill is near to Nakuru lake and we headed for the lake. The drive however began overlooking forested areas.
Impala
Impressive horns on an Impala Buck
Olive Baboons were scattered everywhere at Nakuru
Water Bucks and a few Zebra
No need to identify this hooved beauty
I hadn't expected to be impressed by Zebra, but wow, they are striking and outrageous in their stark colors. I asked Jafar which species, of the 3 known zebra species, these were, and I was told Imperial Zebra. That puzzled me as I never heard that name before. I think these pajama-clad asses are what used to be called Grevy's Zebra.
And speaking of species, we had a look at our 2nd species of Rhinos - White Rhinos. They were in a muddy puddle, and absolutely not white. The mouths of this species are broad, hense 'wide', and that morphed into 'white' - a misnomer. Black Rhinos have a hook-like upper lip, in no way 'wide'.
Two White Rhinos in a mud puddle
Female Impala near Lake Nakuru's shore
Many Great White Pelicans and cormorants were lolling down by the water.
The lighting was horrible, but there were many Great White Pelicans
And then, there they were - a bjillion flamingos! The first wild ones I've ever seen. Jafar told us there were 2 species out there - Greater Flamingos and Lesser Flamingos.
Greater & Lesser Flamingos - not that I could tell one from the other!
I felt rather boggled, because the bright light reflecting off the water bleached out the details of the birds. I hope I get a better chance to stare at and ID the flamingos at a later date on this trip.
Cape Teals (Ducks) identified a long time after spotting them
Naturally Flamingos weren't the only birds around. There were lots of herons, ducks, shorebirds and gulls. I started shooting photos of everything I could get a shot of. Photos today, identification at my leisure
Lake Nakuru
Saddle-billed Stork & to its right, a ensy Wood Sandpiper
One or two more pelicans in the front, with lots of Flamingos in the far distance
White-faced Whistling Ducks
My noggin was in absolute overload with the birds and game that we saw. Then we hit the big time. Jafar located some more 'big game' for us. My very first WILD African Lion. WAKE UP YOU King of Beasts! I'm joking of course, we were all thrilled to the core to see the lion.
'Yes, I'm the King of....ZZZZZZZzzzzzz'
A bit further off was a second lion, awake I suppose, keeping guard for his weary brother.
Both Mufasa & Scar are in this photo - find them for yourself
Our van was one of about a half dozen that enjoyed viewing the lions. I honestly had zero expectations of seeing any lions or other big cats on this trip. Oh yee of little faith.
Red-billed Oxpeckers
Almost as entrancing as the lions was seeing little Oxpeckers grooming the Zebras, picking insects and whatnot from the Zebra's hide.
I think I'm mostly fascinated that watching the little birds pecking all the hell over other animals doesn't seem to creep me out as much as one would expect. UGH! OK, it's a wee bit creepy.
Oxpecker doing a little 'pit' work
The Zebras all looked a bit bored with their 'detailing' crews
Mom Olive Baboon with a baby on board
Tawny Eagle
African Fishing Eagle
Whew! It was getting dark when we finally headed back to Sarova Lion Hill for a nice dinner and a chance all to get acquainted with our cabins. We saw so much wildlife today, it is difficult to imagine we are going to see much more on our trip. I must have seen a zillion new bird species and I got photos of pretty much every last one. Tomorrow we head out to Kenya's Maasai Mara.
Here is a mercifully short video of the White Rhinos and some Tommies.
Can barely believe I'm going on a safari in Kenya and Tanzania. I have to get there first though, and therein lies the rub. I'm traveling with my long time travel buddy, Ila, and while she took an aisle seat on the opposite side of the ten seat row, I'm at a window. Not sure that choosing a window seat isn't a tactical error on my part, but I'll see.
Paris airport, all done up for the holidays
After my trip last year, though the gawdawful Amsterdam airport, for this trip both Ila and I did not hesitate to pull the 'old lady card' and opt for wheelchair assistance. Hate to do it, but if we hadn't used it on this trip, 2 weeks from now we'd still be roaming the Charles De Gaulle Airport in Paris, trying to find the right damned gate. And we were tired, as the flight from Seatac (Seattle) was a 9 hour flight - our pilot managed to trim a full hour off the flight - good tail winds I suspect.
The flight down to Nairobi, Kenya would also take 9 hours. The cabin of the massive jet was dark. When I got up to hit the restroom, I was startled to see it was not dark outside the jet. The French jet had windows without shades, but that could go electronically go from clear to dark blue, simulating nighttime. The dark navy windows certainly fooled me.
desert sands
Having checked with the in-flight views on my seat's movie screen, looking out the clear jet porthole, I knew the jet was soaring over the Sahara Desert; white as Greenland's snow, but as frigid as snow? Uh... not so much.
Three movies, a landing and a long distance taxing of the KLM jet,I stood just outside the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi Kenya. I was dazed and tired with a numb butt and my constriction socks were ready to drop. Exiting the airport there were dozens upon dozens of signs held up, showing company and customer names. We stood by our luggage and eventually someone from Gate 1 representative found Ila and myself.
The Nairobi Airport
After a 40 minute drive we arrived at the Sankara Nairobi Autograph Collection - the unusual name of the hotel we would spend one night at before heading 'out to the bush'.
Blinds, when closed, visually separated a the sleeping area from the lush bathroom
The following morning we got up, repacked our luggage, then headed off to breakfast on the 2nd floor. Our meals are inclusive for the trip. This hotel offered what I've grown used to on the past few travels - a buffet breakfast. The offerings ran from basic, like fresh fruits, bread & butter pudding, Bircher Museli (whatever that is), smoothies, beetroot & cranberry detox drink, raw honeycomb(?) and a tower of breakfast bakery items.
Raw Honeycomb
Tower o' baked stuff
My breakfast, complete with African grown Arabica Coffee
Following breakfast, the entire group - ten total, plus 2 guides - met up with our Kenyan Gate 1 tour leaders. It was the first time we were all meeting each other. Our guide, and his assistant welcomed us all to our tour. Everyone introduced themselves. The only non-married couples were Ila and myself. Most of the group had previously traveled before with the Gate 1 company.
Ila and I were the first ones to arrive, other than a guide
We were told what to expect all around, from road conditions (rough), to specific rules, that we should never, ever, ever photograph military facilities or persons, least we get carted away to a holding cell.
Looking up from our seating area - an atrium of hotel rooms
Finally, we were given free thingies for our trip. Our largess included each of us receiving our name tag lanyards, a metal water bottle with Gate 1 logo on it, and a rugged Gate 1 safari hat. My favorite item, and contrarily Ila's least favorite item was a small bolt of Masai style tartan cloth, called 'Shuka'. I. Was. Thrilled to get it! So v. Happy!
Pile of the goodies that were distributed among us.
Masai Lady
Viking Lady
Ila was not tickled with her Shuka cloth, feeling it was too much to expect people to have to pack and carry around the small bolt of cloth for the next 2 weeks. So, generous me, I did Ila 'a favor' by taking her Shuka. Now I have both of the tartans that were given out. True that as yet, I have no clue what to do with my Shukas. But, I am so enchanted with them, able to bring home a bit of the Masai culture. It is rather a dream come true. I've long admired the Masai people. How lucky am I? I wish I'd been this lucky in Norway last winter because then I'd have come home with 2 Lady Viking's dresses.
Now all of us in possession of instructions and goodies, it was time to load ourselves into the 2 vans we were to journey in, and head off to Lake Nakuru National Park. The journey begins!
Our group was escorted to the reception area. There we got our cabin assignments, and our luggage was then portered to our rooms. 
