Today was a travel day, leaving Kenya, headed for Tanzania, passports at the ready.
Gateway to the Mara Triangle
Before reaching the Tanzania border, our driver had to show paperwork to the Masa Mara Conservancy, as we had to pass through the Masai Mara Triangle. The triangle is a large portion of Maasai Mara National Reserve. The area was both thoughtful and a bit shabby.
Many skulls and teeth of local ex-wildlife decorated the Mara Conservancy signs
The infamous hole-in-the-ground
While Jafar presented paperwork in the Narok officials, the ladies of my van, headed across the road and over to the rest rooms. Surprise! The first cubby had a hole-in-the-ground toilets I've only ever heard about from friends who visited Asia. I felt determined I was up to the task of 'the Big Squat'. So I marched into the stall... and froze. Nope. Can't do it. At least can't do it without giving my shoes a 'golden shower'. All of us ladies gave up. Luckily we didn't stop checking stalls and we discovered a 'real' toilet nearby. Sadly it was on the men's half of the restroom area so we were forced by happenstance to HYJACK it. We figured the men of our group are quite capable of peeing into a hole in the ground with no trouble.
Croc skulls, Hippo skulls, anyone for a nice hippo tusk?
It was a bit after 11:30 when the vans arrived at the Tanzania international check point. We said bye-bye to our wonderful guide Jafar, gathered our paperwork and headed upstairs to the Tanzania Customs. Our luggage crossed the border without us, no fuss. I was not to be so lucky.
I had my passport. Weeks ago, after much fuss via the internet I acquired my Tanzania Visa. On the health records front, I'd thought I was home free, having a note from my primary doctor, proof that I had all my necessary shots, etc. But one glance at my doctor's note by an official, and I was ushered into an inner office. I was petrified - thought I might have to stay in Kenya by myself, while everyone else sallied forth to the Serengeti. In an inner office a petite officianal greeted me with 'Hello lovely, lovely lady! Welcome!' He grinned at me. 'You do not have adequate paperwork, the yellow card required for your entry to Tanzania.'
Holy crap.
Miraculously, for a mere 50 American dollars, I was issued the 'indispensable' folding yellow card. The officinal filled it out, signed it, and embossed it. Honestly, as what information he placed on the card was taken from my doctor's note, why wasn't my doctor's note enough? Uh... because someone was hankering for 50 American dollars.
Gathering our 'stuff'' from the Kenya vans to cross the border
The border crossing 'Adventure' complete, our new driver/tour guide - Wolfgang - drove us to our luncheon spot, in a tiny Tanzanian town.
The lovely hacienda where we had lunch
We were each given a huge lunch box, stuffed full of chow: bananas, tangerines, boxed juices, buns, lots of roasted chicken and packets of biscuits (that's cookies for you non-Anglophiles/non-Harry Potter fans).
Our group left behind almost as much food as we ate. The waitresses were begged to find a good use for the leftovers - other than the trash bin.
Following our lunch stop, was my lifetime thrill: Entering the Serengeti National Park. OMG!
We stopped briefly at a cute little picnic area (of course I immediately began chasing birds with my camera).
Nearby was a small mobile shop that had loads of local souvenirs that I managed to convince myself I could live without. So while everyone shopped I resumed chasing after birds for photos.
Hot dog, got my bird! A Gray-capped Weaver
Our route to our glamping spot was also a safari drive. Our new driver Wolfgang took time to point out wildlife along our route. One of the first animals he showed us was a beautiful Leopard Tortoise.
There were Masai Giraffes a plenty.
This AWESOME Dark Chanting Goshawk posed all prettily for me
We watched a beautiful courting pair of Grey-crowned Cranes
There were scads of Weaver type birds, busily weaving their nests.
Around 5:30 our group arrived at the Emalakai Camp. The building seen below is the main hang out - consisting of a central dining area.
Our mob entering the Emalakai Authentic Camp
Photo I took from the 'lush' lounging area with comfy chairs, sofas and tables.
A broad deck surrounds the interior dining hall. The deck has lovely areas from which to view passing wildlife.
The deck also has a plush sitting area.
While the luggage arrived and got sorted, we were all seated in the outdoor lounge and given orientation to our venue for the next couple of days. My favorite info was that we were not to wander around at night, nor were we to leave our tents for breakfast or dinner - without first using walkie talkies to request a escort. The escorts were necessary to insure none of us got carried off by the local wildlife. Not. Kidding! We were told a lioness was the most recent visitor to camp but other animals also used this human compound their 'extended neighborhood'.
Once we were all filled in on important info, we were given our tent designations (we were in tent F (please let that not be ironic!). Two porters/ assisted Ila and myself to our tent. Like our previous camp, our tent was canvas and atop a high wooden platform.
Porters opening (unzipping) our tent
Glamping at its best
OK, both Ila and I were impressed with our massive home for the next couple of days. Our room didn't have 2 Queen sized beds, it had 3. Again, we were told our bed netting would be unfurled for us each evening. Mind... we'd yet to experience any mosquito action, i.e., bites or buzzing.
our bathroom vanity
Later in the evening, we figured out the use of our walkie talkies and a very nice man escorted us to dinner in the main tent. As per usual, the meal was a magnificent buffet.
Later in the night, I laid in the confines of my mosquito netted bed and laughed. Outside of our tent, in the black night, the local hyenas sang us the song of their people. I was thoroughly enchanted. I mimicked back the calls to the hyenas and got an answer or two, but I had to shut up after a while, so I could get some sleep. We would have to be up early in the morning, because tomorrow, Ila and I are going to sail over the Serengeti via a hot air balloon. YAY!
Nothing says 'Welcome to the Africa' as well as his highness here....
Another day in beautiful Kenya! Our tour group was up and out fairly early, loading onto the 2 vans around 7:00.
Kirk's Dik Dik
We were barely out the front gate of the Sarova Mara Game Farm gate when Voila! Walking along the fenceline was a Kirk's Dik Dik. These tiniest of antelope are barely the size of a Cocker Spaniel, between 6 and 11 or so pounds and lovely 'Bambi' eyes. These little guys tend to stick to forested areas so I can see why the thick trees near the perimeter gate suited it's needs just fine
Tiniest of Antelopes
I could have stared at the tiny mite for hours but we were soon off in search of other game.
A couple of Masai Giraffes
Stoic looking Maribou
The bush/grasslands were plumb full of animals. There were at least a dozen Maribou Storks in one meadow clearing. They were just standing still, as if on a break. Maribou Storks are not the prettiest of birds, with their unfeathered naked headsd and drab 'funeral director' feathering.
Break Time
Soon enough, there was a second super cool antelope to admire: a Steenbok. Steenbok are twice the size of the little Dik Dik we saw earlier. Steenbok are not as fussy in their habitat as are Dik Dik. Steenboks can be found from thickets and woodlands, in stone laiden savannahs all the way to near desert type locals.
Steenbok
After viewing such dainty antelope, it was thrilling to view Africa's largest antelope, weighing in around 2K, the Common Eland.
Eland with its complement of Oxpecker birds
Had no luck getting any of the Elands below to pose (had no carrots on hand), so the one standing there licking it's own flank was the best I could manage. The Warthogs up front seem disappointed they weren't the center of attention. I mean, they were posing after all.
Oxpeckers were on board the Elands for clean-up duty.
While we're on the topic of 'large', we ran across our first Ostriches! There were a few scattered females, which are brown, and one leggy male, with jet black and white. Everybody in the van shrieked with delight to see the huge creatures. Of course I too was yelling, when it suddenly hit me... "This HUMONGOUS animal is a... 'birdie'!" Don't know why it took me so long to see the thing as a bird, but honestly it really gave the impression we were viewing a Velociraptor.
A BIG boy
And one more antelope - a beautiful Waterbuck
We got good looks at the bad boys of the grasslands, Hyaenas, Silver-backed Jackals. In the last few years Hyenas have had better PR. They are now known to normally hunt their own food - which often enough is stolen by lions or leopards - so they are not primarily scavengers as once believed. They also are quite the feminists, with any female Hyena being higher in the hierarchy than any male Hyena. Take THAT patriarchy!
Spotted Hyaena
The highlight of the predator viewing was a female Cheetah with four cubs. They marched across the grass, settling in for a sit down under a small tree. Never expected to see Cheetah cubs so that was yet another wonderful viewing.
We watched the cheetah family for quite a pleasant while. The cubs stayed fairly close to Mama. I love the extra 'fuzz' Cheetah cubs have along the crest of their heads and backs. It's believed that makes them resemble African Badgers, which are tough S.O.B.s that no animal wants to mess with, so the cubs by imitating the nasty badgers, get a benefit from looking a little like badgers. Not sure if that's entirely true, but it's a cool thought.
It was the kind of day where so many lions, elephants and giraffes were seen that all of us just relaxed and stared at the beauties, lost in our revery.
Lost in some daydreams of its own
Late morning we were up on a ridge, looking down at a lazy river where hippos lounged...
... and crocodiles lay peacefully on muddy shores.
As is now a typical day, around noon-ish, it was back to camp for a leisurely lunch, followed by hours of free time. I wandered around the camp and discovered there was a small library near the reservations desk. Look what I found, that made my afternoon. I do have phone apps that specialize in East African birds but it was nice having this guide to help me sort out a few of the trickier birds.
Around 4PM, we took off for our final Masai Mara wildlife tour, and it was quite 'Birdy'.
This nosey little Spurfowl came right up to the van to stare at it.
Little Bee-Eater
Lilac-breasted Roller
African Wattle Lapwing
White-headed Buffalo Weaver
This beautiful Pied Kingfisher put on a great show, catching a fish
Red-Eyed Dove
Tawny Eagle
Helmeted Guinea Fowl
Grey-backed Fiscal
Red-necked Spurfowl
It was quite the day for beautiful sights and have I mentioned yet how the weather is absolutely perfect? It is nowhere near to being hot and it isn't cold either. I guess I'm the baby bear because the weather to me is just right.
Here is a short video, perhaps 4 minutes, with the Ostrich, Cheetah, etc., all that I managed to to shoot today. Enjoy.
